Intimate charters for four and six:
Some of the best values in barging in France come in wonderfully intimate packages: four passenger charters on owner-operated barges. Strong incentive to ask another couple to join in with you on a pampered barge cruise in France!
The 4-passenger Barge Libje, cruising in Brittany, comes in as the value leader at $2,537.50 per person, for half-board, based on a charter for 4 passengers. (It's $2,887.50 per person based on full-board, charter for 4). Pampered cruise in this quiet northwest corner of France with its Celtic and Norman history.
The 4-passenger Bonheur, cruising through the heart of the wine region in Southern Burgundy on the Canal de Centre is $3,375 per person, based on charter for 4 for half-board plus (all but three dinners are included). Cruise includes a visit to Beaune and a private wine-tasting.
Have three couples interested in cruising? The 6-passenger Who Knows, cruising on the Burgundy Canal in Southern Burgundy, offers a half-board charter for 6 at $2,667 per person based on double occupancy, and for full-board, it's $3,167 per person. Owners-hosts provide a fascinating insight into the wonderful Burgundy wine region.
Individual cabin bookings:
The 8-passenger Savoir Vivre, also cruising on the Burgundy Canal in Southern Burgundy, offers a full-board cruise on an individual cabin booking basis (two cabins minimum) at $3,500 per person, based on double occupancy. The cruise includes nightly dinners off the barge at local restaurants.
For one couple, individual cabin bookings, the lowest cost is cruising aboard the 21-passenger Caprice on the Burgundy Canal, Saone River, and Canal du Centre in Central and Southern Burgundy. Selected weeks are available for individual cabin bookings in the value season (April, July/August, and late October) at $2,990 per person, and at $3,190 per person the rest of the season. Great opportunity to walk and cycle along the canals!
Family charters:
For a family charter, the lowest per-person cruise cost is the 12-passenger Savoir Faire at $2,917 per person, based on charter for 12 with a minimum of two guests under age 12 to qualify. Family charter cruise weeks are available between June 10 through August 25, 2012. Unique among the barges in France, Savoir Faire provides five separate public spaces aboard the barge to mix and mingle OR curl up in a quiet corner, or play a game or visit with three or four in the group, or all join in around the piano for a sing-along! Picnics, barbeques, pirate treasure hunts, popcorn and movie night, glass painting, napkin folding, games of petanque, and so much more!
NOTE: All prices are per person, based on double occupancy, and subject to the charter or minimum cabin requirements, and are quoted and payable in US Dollars. For all half-board cruises, barge crews will be happy to provide recommendations, and provide transportation to and from the restaurants.
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
Monday, December 19, 2011
New Hotel Barges and Updates for 2012
An Introduction To Some Of Our New Friends
We are pleased to introduce you to several terrific barges, and some new friends, newly added to our roster of barge cruises offered for 2012.
8-passenger APRES TOUT
Having formerly managed an entire fleet of
deluxe and ultra deluxe barges, the new owners of the Apres Tout, previously the Le Premier, are experts in the world of barging. The Apres Tout is a classic French barge which has been renovated to offer the most luxurious accommodation for six passengers, for a glorious week of cruising in the southern Burgundy area. Cruising between St Jean de Losne and Pont d'Ouche passengers enjoy visits to Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, Dijon, the Clos de Vougeot, and Chateauneuf en Auxois. Apres Tout offers a cruise to delight the wine connossieur and the history buff, as well as those with an appreciation for fine food and relaxation. The Apres Tout will also escort you to the famed Michelin starred restaurant, the Abbaye de la Bussiere, for one of your cruise's evening meals, included in the cruise fare. Relax with a glass of wine in the hot tub on deck as you cruise through the beautiful Cote d'Or wine region, or bike ahead on the towpath along the lovely Canal de Bourgogne.
For more information, see: http://bargesinfrance.com/aprestout.htm
12-passenger PANACHE
Formerly known as the Marjorie II,
the Panache makes its new debut in Holland in time for the 2012 tulip season. Cruising along the Haarlem-Leiden Canal and the Amstel River, the deluxe barge Panache takes in the splendor of tulip season in Holland from the 1st of April through the 3rd week of May, before moving to France to cruise the rest of the season in the Alsace region. While in Alsace, passengers are treated to a fabulous cruise between Strasbourg and Mittersheim, on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin and the beautiful Canal des Houillères de la Sarre, a canal threaded through a series of large tranquil lakes and quiet forests. Enjoy some delicious Riesling wines on a tour of a vineyard in the Vosges mountains, and traverse the stunning inclined plane of Arzviller boat lift, a true marvel of engineering.
For more information see: http://bargesinfrance.com/panache.htm
8-passenger SOJOURN
The 8-passenger Ultra-Deluxe Sojourn is
cruising on a new route in Southern Burgundy on the Saone River. Her journey cruises into the scenic Beaujolais wine region between Chalon-sur-Saone and Lyon. Luxury awaits you on board the ultra deluxe Sojourn, with large, spacious cabins, and a bright and inviting salon and dining room. Truly a gourmand's cruise, you will be treated to lunches at two restaurants that have been awarded three Michelin stars. The restaurant Georges Blanc, in the village of Vonnas, and the world renowned restaurant of Paul Bocuse, perhaps France's most famous chef! Passengers are also treated to a private cooking lesson at the home of one of the regions top chefs. Wine is also the star of your cruise on the Sojourn, with a visit to the Chateau de la Chaize, one of the largest cellars in the Beaujolais region, and a chance to sample over twenty-one of the featured wines throughout the week. Rural countryside, cosmopolitan Lyon, Michelin starred restaurants, and above all the tireless and accommodating crew make a cruise aboard the Sojourn a once in a lifetime experience.
For more information, see: http://bargesinfrance.com/sojourn.htm
4-passenger LIBJE
Finally, we welcome the 4-passenger Libje, which bears the
distinction of being the only hotel barge cruising in Brittany. Explore this fascinating region, rich with Celtic heritage. You are welcomed aboard this quaint first-class barge like family, and treated to an amazing introduction to this fascinating region. Enjoy France's most picturesque town, the quiet village of Rochefort en Terre and visit the standing stones at Monteneuf, an ancient megalithic site from prehistoric times. The chateau and village of Josselin are one of the highlights of the cruise, where you can sample some of the local fare, such as galettes or crepes. The barge and her owners, Ian and Jane, are both charming and hospitable, and will happily share their private corner of France with all who would like to join them. Local beers, well selected wines and delicious meals prepared by Jane, will highlight a wonderful week aboard this cozy barge. The Libje offers full board and half board cruises. 5 dinners not included with half board.
For more information, see: http://bargesinfrance.com/libje.htm
We are pleased to introduce you to several terrific barges, and some new friends, newly added to our roster of barge cruises offered for 2012.
8-passenger APRES TOUT
Having formerly managed an entire fleet of
deluxe and ultra deluxe barges, the new owners of the Apres Tout, previously the Le Premier, are experts in the world of barging. The Apres Tout is a classic French barge which has been renovated to offer the most luxurious accommodation for six passengers, for a glorious week of cruising in the southern Burgundy area. Cruising between St Jean de Losne and Pont d'Ouche passengers enjoy visits to Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, Dijon, the Clos de Vougeot, and Chateauneuf en Auxois. Apres Tout offers a cruise to delight the wine connossieur and the history buff, as well as those with an appreciation for fine food and relaxation. The Apres Tout will also escort you to the famed Michelin starred restaurant, the Abbaye de la Bussiere, for one of your cruise's evening meals, included in the cruise fare. Relax with a glass of wine in the hot tub on deck as you cruise through the beautiful Cote d'Or wine region, or bike ahead on the towpath along the lovely Canal de Bourgogne.For more information, see: http://bargesinfrance.com/aprestout.htm
12-passenger PANACHE
Formerly known as the Marjorie II,
the Panache makes its new debut in Holland in time for the 2012 tulip season. Cruising along the Haarlem-Leiden Canal and the Amstel River, the deluxe barge Panache takes in the splendor of tulip season in Holland from the 1st of April through the 3rd week of May, before moving to France to cruise the rest of the season in the Alsace region. While in Alsace, passengers are treated to a fabulous cruise between Strasbourg and Mittersheim, on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin and the beautiful Canal des Houillères de la Sarre, a canal threaded through a series of large tranquil lakes and quiet forests. Enjoy some delicious Riesling wines on a tour of a vineyard in the Vosges mountains, and traverse the stunning inclined plane of Arzviller boat lift, a true marvel of engineering.For more information see: http://bargesinfrance.com/panache.htm
8-passenger SOJOURN
The 8-passenger Ultra-Deluxe Sojourn is
cruising on a new route in Southern Burgundy on the Saone River. Her journey cruises into the scenic Beaujolais wine region between Chalon-sur-Saone and Lyon. Luxury awaits you on board the ultra deluxe Sojourn, with large, spacious cabins, and a bright and inviting salon and dining room. Truly a gourmand's cruise, you will be treated to lunches at two restaurants that have been awarded three Michelin stars. The restaurant Georges Blanc, in the village of Vonnas, and the world renowned restaurant of Paul Bocuse, perhaps France's most famous chef! Passengers are also treated to a private cooking lesson at the home of one of the regions top chefs. Wine is also the star of your cruise on the Sojourn, with a visit to the Chateau de la Chaize, one of the largest cellars in the Beaujolais region, and a chance to sample over twenty-one of the featured wines throughout the week. Rural countryside, cosmopolitan Lyon, Michelin starred restaurants, and above all the tireless and accommodating crew make a cruise aboard the Sojourn a once in a lifetime experience. For more information, see: http://bargesinfrance.com/sojourn.htm
4-passenger LIBJE
Finally, we welcome the 4-passenger Libje, which bears the
distinction of being the only hotel barge cruising in Brittany. Explore this fascinating region, rich with Celtic heritage. You are welcomed aboard this quaint first-class barge like family, and treated to an amazing introduction to this fascinating region. Enjoy France's most picturesque town, the quiet village of Rochefort en Terre and visit the standing stones at Monteneuf, an ancient megalithic site from prehistoric times. The chateau and village of Josselin are one of the highlights of the cruise, where you can sample some of the local fare, such as galettes or crepes. The barge and her owners, Ian and Jane, are both charming and hospitable, and will happily share their private corner of France with all who would like to join them. Local beers, well selected wines and delicious meals prepared by Jane, will highlight a wonderful week aboard this cozy barge. The Libje offers full board and half board cruises. 5 dinners not included with half board.For more information, see: http://bargesinfrance.com/libje.htm
Tulip Cruises in Holland: 2012 Tulip Season
Fabulous Tulip Cruises in Holland ...
NOTE: All prices are in US Dollars and apply to the 2012 cruise season, and are subject to change. Where ranges are given, prices vary by season during the cruise year.
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
- 8-passenger ABSOLUUT2 ($4,950 per person)
- 8-passenger LA NOUVELLE ETOILE ($6,150 per person through the cruise week ending April 7, then $6,900 for April 8 through May 13 cruise weeks)
- 12-passenger SAVOIR FAIRE ($4,500 per person)
- 12-passenger PANACHE (formerly MARJORIE II) ($4,690 per person).
NOTE: All prices are in US Dollars and apply to the 2012 cruise season, and are subject to change. Where ranges are given, prices vary by season during the cruise year.
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Special Places Travel Tours France
This past May, June and July members of the Special Places Travel team spent time in France, touring the countryside visiting with barges and their crews. After driving approximately 1,100 miles, and stopping to see 33 barges, Special Places Travel is up to date with all of the details of these beautiful canal and river barges. We toured northern and southern Burgundy, enjoying hospitality and graciousness at every barge that we visited. We were treated to a great dinner and breakfast, while being hosted by George and Susan aboard the Meanderer. We would like to offer a special thanks to Phil and Hannah, former owners of the Maria, for a wonderful birthday meal and celebration, and we wish them continued success with their new endeavor francemotorhomehire.com. Congratulations!
On this trip we were happy to have met Paul and Annie Roberts, a charming young couple, and owners and operators of the lovely barge Bonheur. Bonheur is a 4-passenger First-Class barge, which offers a half board cruising experience. Guests will enjoy breakfasts, lunches and three dinners aboard the barge, as well as three meals ashore at local restaurants (taken at their own expense). The Bonheur is a lovely boat, with a spacious salon with comfortable sofas and a wood burning stove. The cabins are well appointed, with queen sized beds or two twins. We were very impressed with the love and care that the Roberts have put into their barge, and the charm and friendliness that they expressed at our meeting. We are pleased and excited to offer the Bonheur for cruises in the 2011 and 2012.
Also on our tour of Burgundy, we were fortunate to befriend James, the owner of the sprite new barge, the Savoir Vivre. This newly built barge is sleek, and mindful of contemporary style and comfort, with an attention to design and efficiency. the Savoir Vivre's cabins excel in comfort. Along with captain Francois and his partner June, who are operating the Savoir Vivre, we dined at La Ferme de Rolle, a very intriguing restaurant, in the highlands overlooking the Ouche valley. Popular with the locals, La Ferme de Rolle is a real treat, with its rustic charm and delicious fare, this restaurant is a true glimpse into the cuisine and character of life in Burgundy. La Ferme de Rolle is also one of the restaurants that passengers visit while on a cruise aboard the Savoir Vivre and their unique dining out itinerary.
From Burgundy, where we left a few clouds behind, we drove to Provence, and our sun soaked rendezvous with the Le Phenicien in Arles. Welcomed aboard by owner Bertrand, and his crew Michel, Nicola, and their super talented chef Thierrey, we joined a group of passengers cruising on the Rhone River. Le Phenicien can host up to 18 passengers and cruises between Avignon and Aigues Mortes on the Rhone River and the Canal du Rhone a Sete. The meals served aboard Le Phenicien are truly an epicurian delight.
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Exploring cave paintings in Dordogne, pre- or post-cruise on Canal du Midi
Before a Canal du Midi cruise ....
If you have several days to a week to explore France before embarking on a cruise on the Canal du Midi in the South of France, one of the highlights of the region are the caves of Dordogne, to the west of the Canal du Midi.
Many of these caves contain pre-historic cave paintings and are fascinating. We've visited Lascaux II, in Montignac, which is a reproduction of the original neighboring Lascaux cave with its extensive cave paintings. The original Lascaux cave is not open to the public, not only to protect it, but also because they are attempting to resolve serious problems with moisture in the cave which threatens the integrity of the cave paintings. Lascaux II itself is still worth a visit, as it provides a good deal of background and education on cave paintings, cave exploration, and the challenges of preserving cave paintings for future generations. The story of how the reproduction was made is, in itself, a fascinating story, and one of the interesting components of the visit to Lascaux II. (For more information about Lascaux, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lascaux).
Other caves in this region where you are seeing "the real thing" do require reservations and the number of visitors per day is usually tightly controlled, to reduce the potentially damaging effects of visitors to the caves. Flash photography is strictly forbidden in all caves. Cave paintings are usually illuminated with low-level tungsten light, which allows reasonable viewing of the paintings to the eye. If a cave allows photography at all (some do not), probably the best way to capture it without flash is a Flip video camera which has very great sensitivity at low light levels.
For a good listing of caves, and discussion, see:
http://www.northofthedordogne.com/caves.php
We suggest going to the websites of each cave you'd like to visit to make reservations, or telephoning the contact directly to determine the best way to ensure a visit while you are in the area. Watch especially the operating times, as your best chance is to visit the most desirable caves is to arrive before opening time, and be the first ones in the public visit that day.
Driving through the hilly Dordogne region is quite a treat, but also keep in mind that the small roads through the hilly terrain do make driving time from one location to another longer than you might expect. Still, the whole region has quite a lot of charm, and the cave visits are the icing on the cake!
Then, after your drive through Dordogne, enjoy another lifetime memory -- a cruise aboard a barge on the Canal du Midi! Contact us for more information.
If you have several days to a week to explore France before embarking on a cruise on the Canal du Midi in the South of France, one of the highlights of the region are the caves of Dordogne, to the west of the Canal du Midi.Many of these caves contain pre-historic cave paintings and are fascinating. We've visited Lascaux II, in Montignac, which is a reproduction of the original neighboring Lascaux cave with its extensive cave paintings. The original Lascaux cave is not open to the public, not only to protect it, but also because they are attempting to resolve serious problems with moisture in the cave which threatens the integrity of the cave paintings. Lascaux II itself is still worth a visit, as it provides a good deal of background and education on cave paintings, cave exploration, and the challenges of preserving cave paintings for future generations. The story of how the reproduction was made is, in itself, a fascinating story, and one of the interesting components of the visit to Lascaux II. (For more information about Lascaux, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lascaux).
Other caves in this region where you are seeing "the real thing" do require reservations and the number of visitors per day is usually tightly controlled, to reduce the potentially damaging effects of visitors to the caves. Flash photography is strictly forbidden in all caves. Cave paintings are usually illuminated with low-level tungsten light, which allows reasonable viewing of the paintings to the eye. If a cave allows photography at all (some do not), probably the best way to capture it without flash is a Flip video camera which has very great sensitivity at low light levels.
For a good listing of caves, and discussion, see:
http://www.northofthedordogne.com/caves.php
We suggest going to the websites of each cave you'd like to visit to make reservations, or telephoning the contact directly to determine the best way to ensure a visit while you are in the area. Watch especially the operating times, as your best chance is to visit the most desirable caves is to arrive before opening time, and be the first ones in the public visit that day.
Driving through the hilly Dordogne region is quite a treat, but also keep in mind that the small roads through the hilly terrain do make driving time from one location to another longer than you might expect. Still, the whole region has quite a lot of charm, and the cave visits are the icing on the cake!
Then, after your drive through Dordogne, enjoy another lifetime memory -- a cruise aboard a barge on the Canal du Midi! Contact us for more information.
Saturday, January 2, 2010
Half Board Charters with lunch or dinner on your own at local restaurants
Five barges offer Half Board Charters with lunch or dinner on your own at local restaurants ... (2012 rates are shown below)
6-passenger WHO KNOWS -- Burgundy (Half-Board Charter for 6 for $16,000)
4-passenger BONHEUR -- Burgundy (Half-Board Charter for up to 4 for $13,500)
8-passenger L'ETOILE -- Provence (Half-Board Charter for 8 for $23,000)
6-passenger CAROLINE -- Canal du Midi (Half-Board Charter for 6 for $23,400)
6-passenger EMMA -- Canal du Midi (Half-Board Charter for 6 for $30,000)
NOTE: All prices quoted in the blog and on our website are in US Dollars and apply to the 2012 cruise season, and are subject to change. Where ranges are given, prices vary by season during the cruise year.
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
6-passenger WHO KNOWS -- Burgundy (Half-Board Charter for 6 for $16,000)
4-passenger BONHEUR -- Burgundy (Half-Board Charter for up to 4 for $13,500)
8-passenger L'ETOILE -- Provence (Half-Board Charter for 8 for $23,000)
6-passenger CAROLINE -- Canal du Midi (Half-Board Charter for 6 for $23,400)
6-passenger EMMA -- Canal du Midi (Half-Board Charter for 6 for $30,000)
NOTE: All prices quoted in the blog and on our website are in US Dollars and apply to the 2012 cruise season, and are subject to change. Where ranges are given, prices vary by season during the cruise year.
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
Deluxe barges from $3,490 to $5,390 per person (and up) ...
The following barges offer large cabin space and the best value for a deluxe barge with rates from $3,490 per person, double occupancy, and up. All of these barges offer individual cabin bookings or you can charter the entire barge for friends or family. Prices apply to the 2012 season and are based on double occupancy. Where price ranges are given, prices vary by season, so see each barge's web page for details.
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
- 18-passenger LE PHENICIEN -- Provence ($3,490 - $4,440)
- 10-passenger SHANNON PRINCESS II -- Ireland ($4,110 - $4,660)
- 8-passenger MAGNA CARTA -- England ($3,990 - $4,750)
- 12-passenger PANACHE, formerly MARJORIE II -- Holland and Belgium and Alsace ($4,690 - $5,390)
- 12-passenger SAVOIR FAIRE -- Holland, Burgundy and Champagne ($4,500 - $4,800)
- 8-passenger ABSOLUUT2 -- Holland and Burgundy ($4,350 - $4,750)
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
Top barges in France: Ultra Deluxe ...
Top barges in France: Ultra Deluxe ...
When all-out elegance and spaciousness is on your agenda, the ultra-deluxe barges in France will certainly deliver. These 12 hotel barges offer the largest cabin sizes along with top wines, cuisine, service and amenities. All can be chartered for a customized cruise week and many also offer individual cabin bookings:
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
When all-out elegance and spaciousness is on your agenda, the ultra-deluxe barges in France will certainly deliver. These 12 hotel barges offer the largest cabin sizes along with top wines, cuisine, service and amenities. All can be chartered for a customized cruise week and many also offer individual cabin bookings:
- 12-passenger ADRIENNE -- Champagne and Alsace
- 4-passenger ALOUETTE -- Canal du Midi (charter only).
- 8-passenger AMARYLLIS -- Burgundy (charter only).
- 8-passenger ENCHANTE -- Canal du Midi or Provence
- 6-passenger FLEUR DE LYS -- Burgundy (charter only).
- 8-passenger HORIZON II -- Burgundy
- 8-passenger LA NOUVELLE ETOILE -- Holland, Belgium, Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace and Germany
- 12-passenger NAPOLEON -- Burgundy and Provence
- 12-passenger NENUPHAR -- Burgundy
- 8-passenger PROSPERITE -- Burgundy (charter only).
- 8-passenger RENAISSANCE -- Upper Loire
- 6-passenger ROI SOLEIL -- Canal du Midi and Provence (charter only).
Contact us to answer any questions you may have, or for individual consultation on your best choice for barge cruises in France and the rest of Europe.
Thursday, December 24, 2009
Cuisine Aboard Barges: Chef Hazel Shares A Recipe For A Great Winter Warmer
Hazel Young, owner and chef of the barge, 
Fandango, and author of the cookbook, "A Week On The Water", has suggested that we share a recipe of hers with our friends. Hazel writes,
"As I love 'terroir' regional cuisine and have a barge recipe book with dishes that are easy for passengers to recreate, I had the idea to send you a couple of snaps of what I'm making in my galley at this time of year, I also make this for the passengers in the Autumn and early Spring when one can buy French winter squash."
"You can not go out to a gourmet restaurant in Burgundy at this time of year without being served as the first dish, or 'amuse bouche', a variation of creamed French winter squash soup. Depending on how fancy the restaurant, the smaller the glass or bowl is!"
Ingredients:
2 lbs Potimaron Squash, or Butternut Squash
2 Leeks
7 Cups Water
1 Bay Leaf
1 Tbls Vegetable Stock Paste
Several Cloves of Garlic (to taste)
Salt and Pepper (to taste)
2 Tbls Creme Fraiche
Olive Oil
My version of cooking this seasonal delicacy is a little more time consuming but really delicious as it brings out the full potential of sweetness in the vegetables. Perhaps in the U.S. you may find butternut squash more easily than this sweet 'chestnut' flavoured 'potimarron' squash. It looks like a small pumpkin and is common in France, although it is twice the price of ordinary pumpkin.
Slice the squash, and remove seeds (use a whole one if not exceeding 2lbs ) cut off the tough outer skin, which can be dangerous if using a sharp knife, or roast with the skin on and it will easily peel when cooked, my preferred method.
Put chunks in a roasting dish wtih several cloves of garlic, according to taste, and drizzle with olive oil. Bake in a medium heated oven for an hour until caramelized.
In a cast iron or soup pot, pour in one quarter of a cup of olive oil and over a very low heat, roast two well washed and thinly sliced leeks until caramelized , this will take at least 15 to twenty minutes but can be done while the squash is roasting.
Add the caramelized squash and garlic to the leeks, pour in 8 cups of water, add a tablespoon of dried vegetable stock, salt and pepper to season, a bay leaf and bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for twenty minutes.
Remove bay leaf, use electric hand held mixer if you have one, blend until smooth. Add three tablespoons of cream before serving or heat the cream separately and use as a decoration when the soup is served in bowls. If the soup has become too thick for your liking you can add milk or water, and of course adjust the salt and pepper."
We here at Special Places Travel thought it would be a great way to warm up after an east coast snow storm, so we gave Hazel's recipe a try. A very delicious, velvety smooth soup, with an earthy sweetness. The only thing missing was the the view of the Canal du Midi off the deck of the Fandango.
Thanks, Hazel!
Fandango, and author of the cookbook, "A Week On The Water", has suggested that we share a recipe of hers with our friends. Hazel writes,"As I love 'terroir' regional cuisine and have a barge recipe book with dishes that are easy for passengers to recreate, I had the idea to send you a couple of snaps of what I'm making in my galley at this time of year, I also make this for the passengers in the Autumn and early Spring when one can buy French winter squash."
"You can not go out to a gourmet restaurant in Burgundy at this time of year without being served as the first dish, or 'amuse bouche', a variation of creamed French winter squash soup. Depending on how fancy the restaurant, the smaller the glass or bowl is!"
Ingredients:2 lbs Potimaron Squash, or Butternut Squash
2 Leeks
7 Cups Water
1 Bay Leaf
1 Tbls Vegetable Stock Paste
Several Cloves of Garlic (to taste)
Salt and Pepper (to taste)
2 Tbls Creme Fraiche
Olive Oil
My version of cooking this seasonal delicacy is a little more time consuming but really delicious as it brings out the full potential of sweetness in the vegetables. Perhaps in the U.S. you may find butternut squash more easily than this sweet 'chestnut' flavoured 'potimarron' squash. It looks like a small pumpkin and is common in France, although it is twice the price of ordinary pumpkin.
Slice the squash, and remove seeds (use a whole one if not exceeding 2lbs ) cut off the tough outer skin, which can be dangerous if using a sharp knife, or roast with the skin on and it will easily peel when cooked, my preferred method.
Put chunks in a roasting dish wtih several cloves of garlic, according to taste, and drizzle with olive oil. Bake in a medium heated oven for an hour until caramelized.
In a cast iron or soup pot, pour in one quarter of a cup of olive oil and over a very low heat, roast two well washed and thinly sliced leeks until caramelized , this will take at least 15 to twenty minutes but can be done while the squash is roasting.
Add the caramelized squash and garlic to the leeks, pour in 8 cups of water, add a tablespoon of dried vegetable stock, salt and pepper to season, a bay leaf and bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for twenty minutes.
Remove bay leaf, use electric hand held mixer if you have one, blend until smooth. Add three tablespoons of cream before serving or heat the cream separately and use as a decoration when the soup is served in bowls. If the soup has become too thick for your liking you can add milk or water, and of course adjust the salt and pepper."
We here at Special Places Travel thought it would be a great way to warm up after an east coast snow storm, so we gave Hazel's recipe a try. A very delicious, velvety smooth soup, with an earthy sweetness. The only thing missing was the the view of the Canal du Midi off the deck of the Fandango.
Thanks, Hazel!
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Enjoy A Cruise Aboard The Clair de Lune!
Enjoy the scenery of the Canal du Midi aboard the peniche hotel barge, Clair de Lune. Take a tour of the salon and cabins, and get a glimpse of some of the vineyards and medieval castles that await you along France's oldest canal.
For more information about the 6-passenger Clair de Lune, cruising on the Canal du Midi in the south of France, see:
http://BargesInFrance.com/clairdelune.htm or contact us.
http://BargesInFrance.com/clairdelune.htm or contact us.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Here's What Clients Wrote About Their Cruise
Here are a few of the many comments we received from our passengers during the last cruise season:
C'est la Vie was welcoming, top class, comfortable, excellent food, excellent wine, wonderful conversation with a personable, knowledgeable crew. Service was friendly, attentive, top class. Our meals and wines without question were the BEST.. wonderfully matched. Our excursions were well chosen ... with an incredible tour guide who spoke fluent French and had a photographic memory for detail.... again the BEST. We would do this again in a heart beat!
Thank you.
-- Vanessa H., Vermont. Aboard C'est la Vie August 2011
Emma is magnificent. Service could not have been better. Meals and wines were EXCELLENT. Emma was an extremely peaceful journey on a finely maintained canal. This ranks at the top of any of our 61 ship experiences, no hassles and plenty of "frills". The warmth of our hosts was a high point! Emma spoiled us for the next two weeks which we spent in a car travelling in Italy. The cruise is peaceful, and yet invigorating, complete enjoyment of God's creation, warm fellowship.
-- LaVerne and Blaine B., California. Aboard the Emma, September 2011
It was absolutely wonderful! Over the years, we have had some really fantastic trips, much more dramatic, etc. but never have we spent a more enjoyable week than this gentle 65-mile cruise with our friends and a crew that could not do enough for us. The scenery, the food, ah....
-- A&J V, aboard Emma, on Canal du Midi
The barge trip was phenomenal. What we experienced was so much more than what we expected. The barge was impeccable, clean, well decorated, easy to move around in. The staff were fun, attentive and knowledgeable. The food could have come from a 5 star restaurant.
-- M&J D, aboard Hirondelle, in Burgundy
Ranked in the top 3 of trips taken in Dick's (74-year) lifetime. Just a wonderfully memorable voyage. The accommodations on the barge were great, the crew was very attentive to our needs and the food was like dining in one of the finer French restaurants every night (thank you, Travis!). The cruise met or exceeded all expectations of what a barge cruise should be. This was our first barge cruise and we hope it won't be the last.
The service? Unbelievable. Much attention was given to meet our every need and you can't ask for or expect more than that on a vacation trip.
The meals and wines were better than any vacation we've ever been on. The crew described the wines before serving and Travis (the chef) described meal preparation, ingredients and what to expect at each meal. All in all, wine and meals were expected to be and were fantastic!
The excursions were very interesting and informative. Lydia's narratives were wonderful and she had a nice sense of humor to add to them. Thoroughly enjoyed all excursions and one of the reasons I selected this particular cruise (the cruise was a surprise to D. until the van pulled up to the Athos on 10/11) was the fact that Chrysler air-conditioned vans followed the barge which facilitated greatly our getting to the various sites for our excursions comfortably and efficiently. Carcassonne was a highlight of the excursion choices.
We liked the barge route very much. As we traveled in mid-Oct. it was important that we chose a cruise in the south of France. We had blue skies every day (no rain) and the only weather problem was a few days with wind that chilled the air unseasonably but that is a small disappointment. It was very interesting to see the lock operations and to see the barge cross a river on a bridge was really unusual and unexpected.
High points of the cruise? Food, scenery, wine, service, excursions - Carcassonne a particular highlight, and the stress-free nature of this cruise.
-- D.K. & D.P, aboard Athos, on Canal du Midi
The service on Savoir Faire was excellent, the staff was very attentive to our needs. Most importantly, everyone was friendly and knowledgeable. We had amazing meals and wines!!! And don't forget the cheeses. The food was easily the best of all the cruises I have been on. We found our excursions very interesting and educational. A photographer's dream. The cruise route was exactly what we had asked for. We enjoyed ourselves very much. The barge, the food, the tours, the staff--everything was wonderful, thank you!
-- Linda R., Washington. Aboard Savoir Faire, May 2011
We really enjoyed the barge route, everything was perfect. We loved just relaxing on the deck. I highly recommend this trip for anyone who would like to experience France in a slow relaxed way. You will enjoy the food and wine as well as see many of the smaller villages along the canal. The best week we have had in a very long time!
-- Bob and Lisa D., Texas. Aboard Papillon, September 2011
Our cruise on Alegria was a trip of a lifetime. Olivier and the crew did everything possible to make it a memorable experience. We would recommend it to anyone. Everyday was an adventure! The barge, the cabins, it all more than met our expectations. Gladys was a fabulous cook!
-- Christine M., California. Aboard Alegria, October 2011
C'est la Vie was welcoming, top class, comfortable, excellent food, excellent wine, wonderful conversation with a personable, knowledgeable crew. Service was friendly, attentive, top class. Our meals and wines without question were the BEST.. wonderfully matched. Our excursions were well chosen ... with an incredible tour guide who spoke fluent French and had a photographic memory for detail.... again the BEST. We would do this again in a heart beat!Thank you.
-- Vanessa H., Vermont. Aboard C'est la Vie August 2011
For more information about the 8-passenger C'EST LA VIE, cruising in Burgundy, see:
http://BargesInFrance.com/cestlavie.htm or contact us.
http://BargesInFrance.com/cestlavie.htm or contact us.
Emma is magnificent. Service could not have been better. Meals and wines were EXCELLENT. Emma was an extremely peaceful journey on a finely maintained canal. This ranks at the top of any of our 61 ship experiences, no hassles and plenty of "frills". The warmth of our hosts was a high point! Emma spoiled us for the next two weeks which we spent in a car travelling in Italy. The cruise is peaceful, and yet invigorating, complete enjoyment of God's creation, warm fellowship.-- LaVerne and Blaine B., California. Aboard the Emma, September 2011
It was absolutely wonderful! Over the years, we have had some really fantastic trips, much more dramatic, etc. but never have we spent a more enjoyable week than this gentle 65-mile cruise with our friends and a crew that could not do enough for us. The scenery, the food, ah....
-- A&J V, aboard Emma, on Canal du Midi
For more information about the 6-passenger EMMA, cruising on the Canal du Midi in the south of France, see:
http://BargesInFrance.com/emma.htm or contact us.
http://BargesInFrance.com/emma.htm or contact us.
The barge trip was phenomenal. What we experienced was so much more than what we expected. The barge was impeccable, clean, well decorated, easy to move around in. The staff were fun, attentive and knowledgeable. The food could have come from a 5 star restaurant.-- M&J D, aboard Hirondelle, in Burgundy
For more information about the 8-passenger HIRONDELLE, cruising in southern Burgundy and the Upper Loire region of France, see:
http://BargesInFrance.com/hirondelle.htm or contact us.
http://BargesInFrance.com/hirondelle.htm or contact us.
Ranked in the top 3 of trips taken in Dick's (74-year) lifetime. Just a wonderfully memorable voyage. The accommodations on the barge were great, the crew was very attentive to our needs and the food was like dining in one of the finer French restaurants every night (thank you, Travis!). The cruise met or exceeded all expectations of what a barge cruise should be. This was our first barge cruise and we hope it won't be the last.The service? Unbelievable. Much attention was given to meet our every need and you can't ask for or expect more than that on a vacation trip.
The meals and wines were better than any vacation we've ever been on. The crew described the wines before serving and Travis (the chef) described meal preparation, ingredients and what to expect at each meal. All in all, wine and meals were expected to be and were fantastic!
The excursions were very interesting and informative. Lydia's narratives were wonderful and she had a nice sense of humor to add to them. Thoroughly enjoyed all excursions and one of the reasons I selected this particular cruise (the cruise was a surprise to D. until the van pulled up to the Athos on 10/11) was the fact that Chrysler air-conditioned vans followed the barge which facilitated greatly our getting to the various sites for our excursions comfortably and efficiently. Carcassonne was a highlight of the excursion choices.
We liked the barge route very much. As we traveled in mid-Oct. it was important that we chose a cruise in the south of France. We had blue skies every day (no rain) and the only weather problem was a few days with wind that chilled the air unseasonably but that is a small disappointment. It was very interesting to see the lock operations and to see the barge cross a river on a bridge was really unusual and unexpected.
High points of the cruise? Food, scenery, wine, service, excursions - Carcassonne a particular highlight, and the stress-free nature of this cruise.
-- D.K. & D.P, aboard Athos, on Canal du Midi
For more information about the 10-passenger ATHOS, cruising on the Canal du Midi in the south of France, see: http://BargesInFrance.com/athos.htm or contact us.
The service on Savoir Faire was excellent, the staff was very attentive to our needs. Most importantly, everyone was friendly and knowledgeable. We had amazing meals and wines!!! And don't forget the cheeses. The food was easily the best of all the cruises I have been on. We found our excursions very interesting and educational. A photographer's dream. The cruise route was exactly what we had asked for. We enjoyed ourselves very much. The barge, the food, the tours, the staff--everything was wonderful, thank you!
-- Linda R., Washington. Aboard Savoir Faire, May 2011
For more information about the 12-passenger SAVOIR FAIRE, cruising in Holland during the Spring Tulip Season and in France the rest of the year -- including Burgundy and the Champagne region -- see:
http://BargesInFrance.com/savoirfaire.htm or contact us.
http://BargesInFrance.com/savoirfaire.htm or contact us.
We really enjoyed the barge route, everything was perfect. We loved just relaxing on the deck. I highly recommend this trip for anyone who would like to experience France in a slow relaxed way. You will enjoy the food and wine as well as see many of the smaller villages along the canal. The best week we have had in a very long time!-- Bob and Lisa D., Texas. Aboard Papillon, September 2011
For more information about the 6-passenger LE PAPILLON, cruising in Burgundy, see: http://BargesInFrance.com/papillon.htm or contact us.
Our cruise on Alegria was a trip of a lifetime. Olivier and the crew did everything possible to make it a memorable experience. We would recommend it to anyone. Everyday was an adventure! The barge, the cabins, it all more than met our expectations. Gladys was a fabulous cook!-- Christine M., California. Aboard Alegria, October 2011
For more information about the 4-passenger ALEGRIA, cruising on the Canal du Midi in southern France, see: http://BargesInFrance.com/alegria.htm or contact us.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Barging In Burgundy - Cruise Aboard Le Papillon
Barging In Burgundy - A Once In A Lifetime Opportunity
Did you ever think about the perfect vacation and what that would be? Well here’s your answer – barging in Burgundy on Le Papillon. This experience is the epitome of what you would expect from a hotel barge. It’s an intimate setting for six lucky guests supported by a dream team staff of four. You couldn’t imagine a better situation.
Our dream vacation started on July 5, 2009 arriving at the gangplank of Le Papillon from Paris chauffeured by Michael, who would be our guide for the week. Sarah, Haley and Cedric were there to greet us with champagne, show us to our berths, and then invited us to relax on deck while the finishing touches were made to dinner. Our mooring was right across from a typical stone cottage we would find time and again on our trip down the Canal de Bourgogne, complete with climbing roses over the front door. The weather was perfect while we sipped our aperitif, and shortly Haley invited us down to the dining salon for dinner.
The table was set for six, with beautiful linens (which would change daily from meal to meal), fresh flowers on the buffet, candles, multiple wine glasses and more, making us feel as though we were royalty. Once seated, our appetizer was served, and Sarah, the chef, poked her head around the corner of the kitchen to tell us what we were having and wished us a cheery, “Bon appétit!” in her lovely British accent. Exquisite in presentation and taste, from the appetizer of Chevre chaud au salade mesclun to the entre of Carre d’agneaux, to a stupendous dessert of tarte tatin, with a sampling of two “lovely, melt in your mouth” local cheeses as described by Haley, and plenty of Chablis and Burgundy to accompany the feast, we were simply blown away by this meal, the first of a week-long sampling of some of the finest food we have had.
How could the evening get better? A digestive on the deck, then a short walk under an almost full moon to the small hamlet of Fleury sur Ouche topped off the night, before we headed to bed. In our cabins there were many thoughtful little touches, flashlights in case of emergency, fresh flowers, scented soaps, Ferrero Rocher chocolates (which mysteriously replenished themselves every day), crisply ironed sheets, comfy pillows and warm comforter. We drifted off to sleep to the sounds of crickets and water lapping at the boat through our open portals.
Monday morning, we were awakened early by birdsong and a rather loud rooster, which was good, because it was our first full day on board and we were excited to see how the day would go. Greeted by sunshine and blue skies, we sat down to a delicious breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice, fruit, yogurt, bread and croissants from a nearby bakery, granola and lots of café au lait. We got underway around 9:30 and made our way through the first of the forty-one locks we would travel through in the course of the week. Larry and I debarked and walked along the canal, knowing we would need to exercise to keep even with the caloric intake we expected to consume during the coming week. It was beautiful – lots of wildflowers adorned the sides of the path and we waited at each lock for Le Papillon to catch up. We hopped back on before the last lock of the morning then headed in for lunch.Lunch was leisurely and delicious – curried chicken salad, cucumber salad with tomatoes, fennel salad with feta, lentil salad and fresh green salad. Sarah made everything fresh from local produce which was evident in the flavor of everything we tasted. Two cheeses and two wines later, we left the barge with Michael and headed to Cote d’Or for a lesson in distinguishing vineyards, wine classification and a little wine tasting. We drove through the beautiful Burgundian countryside, and stopped at the edge of a vineyard, learning the difference between grape varieties grown in the region and what identifies a particular appellation. Then we were off to Chateau du Clos de Vougeot, headquarters of Le Chevaliers du Tastevin and formerly a monastery built in the 11th century by the monks of Citeaux. We breezed back into the village to sample some local wines, working our way up to a Premier Cru and finishing with a Grand Cru.
Back to the barge in time for a little more cruising to our final destination for the day so Larry and I hopped on the bikes and forged the way. We met up with the barge at Gissey sur Ouche, another quaint little town along the canal. A cocktail, a shower, then dinner was served. Could Sarah possible top what she had served the night before? Ah yes, and she did the same every night we were on the barge. Cold pea soup with mint, poached salmon with hollandaise, sautéed spinach, basmati rice and then our cheese course. We barely had room for the chocolate sou"és that came out next, but somehow we managed to eat every last scrap of the dessert. Not a crumb was left in any dish! Coffee on deck as the dusk settled in around us, listening to the sound of water running through the lock that we’ll go through tomorrow – what could be more idyllic? Off to bed serenaded by birdsong. Did I mention those chocolates that kept replenishing themselves?
Tuesday was a long, lazy day and we were up early to take a trip into Dijon for the weekly market and to visit historical sites. Sarah escorted us around the market talking about local produce, meats, and cheeses, then Michael gave us a fascinating tour of the city. His knowledge of history was extensive, and he gave us a detailed, “Cliff Notes” version of the lineage and rule of the Dukes of Burgundy. Pretty complex, a few double crosses here and there, alliances by marriage, the Bold, the Fearless, the Good and much more. We had to fall back on the guide book later to sort it all out. We walked around town with Michael noting points of interest and took turns rubbing a little carved ochuette (owl) on the side of the 13th century church for good luck and a long, healthy life as long as you used your left hand!Back at the boat, we were greeted with a lunch repast of treats from the market – hard sausage, country pate, goose liver pate, tomato and mozzarella salad, tabouleh salad, luscious cherries, fresh bread, our requisite two cheeses and of course, a white and red wine. After lunch, we set sail and Larry and I started out walking, then switched to the bikes and rode to the next stopping point at Pont d’Ouche. We took side trips up into the villages we passed, getting a little glimpse into life in the French countryside.
Our dinner this evening was at a restaurant, La Ferme de Rol, tucked into the hillside about a 25 minute drive from our mooring. At our urging, we asked Michael to join us as he felt like a natural part of our group. We had fun trying out the specialties of the house from escargot, to a well-known ham, mixed grill and pork tenderloin. A wonderfully diverse cheese tray and various desserts topped off the meal along with a couple of bottles of wine. Ken, one of our traveling partners, rode shotgun looking for wild boar and deer on the way back to the barge as twilight settled in. Sarah, Cedric and Michael hung out with us while we chatted about the day’s events. A perfect ending to another amazing day on Le Papillon!
Wednesday (how can it be Wednesday already), dawned cool with mixed clouds and sun but that didn’t dampen our spirits (or our appetites). We cruised in the morning, and Larry and I walked about two hours before hopping back on board. We moored along the canal with a stupendous view of Chateauneuf – a landmark we had been seeing all morning as we made our way down the canal. Before we headed out for the afternoon trip to Beaune, we feasted on the most delicious, rich quiche of swiss chard, a fresh pea, carrot and bean salad with homemade mayonnaise (made daily), wild rice salad with cucumbers, walnuts, raisins and tomatoes, fresh artichoke hearts, and cheese, wine and bread. A little fresh flower was tucked into our napkins – just one of the many ways Haley decorated our table for each meal.Beaune, our destination for the afternoon, was a fascinating place and our first stop was at the Hotel Dieu, a hospital for the poor built by a wealthy couple, Nicholas and Guigone Rolin, in the mid 1400’s as a way to redeem their souls before leaving this earth. In addition, they bequeathed vineyards to the hospital as a means of supporting the operating expenses. The wine from the vineyards is auctioned off every year to this day, the benefits going to the hospital. The most incredible artifact of the day was a beautiful painting by Roger Van der Weyden depicting the Last Judgment. A polyptych, painted in the 15th century, it was displayed above the altar to remind the sick of their mortality and to encourage them to repent their sins while they still had the chance. Very moving and certainly made me take notice of the difference between heaven and hell as depicted in the painting!
After touring the Hotel Dieu, we poked around Beaune, bought some wine and headed back to Le Papillon for a cocktail on deck, wondering what delectable dishes we would be having tonight. Not disappointed, Sarah served us escargots forestiere, roasted quail, celeriac and mashed potatoes, petit pois, and polenta aux herbes. We finished with two delicious cheeses (how could there be so many varieties) and a gateaux gingembre with crème anglaise with framboise. We were so full, the group decided to take a walk and we set our sights on the Chateauneuf! It was a lovely stroll, although the road up to the village was steep and we had to keep focused on the objective. We were rewarded with wonderful views, and as the sun set, the last rays of daylight lit up the chateau and surrounding country. As we headed back to the barge, we joked about the crew worrying about their guests getting lost in the dark in the French countryside. They were surprised we walked all the way to the chateau and I think relieved that we made it back in one piece. We enjoyed a cognac and then headed off to bed.
Thursday, we cruised in the morning along another beautiful stretch of the canal, with lots of Charolais cattle everywhere, neat gardens, flowers tucked in and around quaint old houses. On foot once again, we enjoyed the abundance of wildflowers, and felt like we saw so much more by walking. Larry continued to take pictures of each “ecluse” and hopefully we can put together a poster of them when we get home. We met up with the barge at the last lock before docking, then sat down to another fantastic lunch. Poached eggs over toast with a red wine and mushroom sauce, mixed salad, and homemade peach ice cream for dessert. Cheese and wine of course, was a highlight of lunch.
Our destination after lunch was - Chateauneuf! Fortunately, we had not gone into the village on our walk, knowing we would be visiting it today. Michael gave us an extraordinary tour of the chateau, we walked around the village, enjoyed the views and had a wonderful afternoon, swinging by one of the reservoirs that feeds the canal on the way back to the barge and driving into Pouilly, to see where the canal exits the 3 kilometer tunnel that’s under the city.We had a special treat in store for us tonight, Armel and Roland were our entertainment before dinner. They sang and played French and Belgian songs for us. Roland was an amazing piano player and had a great voice, and Armel, was sexy and sultry as she went through their repertoire of music. A perfect touch for cruising through Burgundy and we enjoyed their performance immensely.
Dinner was later because of the entertainment, and since it was John’s birthday, we celebrated in style with birthday hats and balloons. Chestnut soup with croutons and duck pate, followed by fish with sauce verte and fresh tomato salsa and rice pilaf, our cheese tray, then birthday cake with crème fraiche and warm berry sauce. To end the meal we had a champagne birthday toast to John by all, including the crew – a perfect way to celebrate such an auspicious day.
Friday, and sadly our last day, we felt like we wanted to mutiny and take over the barge living on it for the rest of the summer, eating Sarah’s delicious meals. But alas, we knew we couldn’t do that so we tried our best to lock in every memory of that day. We started early, heading out at 6:15 am for a hot air balloon ride over the Burgundy countryside. It was our party’s first ride, and Haley and Armel came along to experience one of the most amazing events any of us have had. We jumped in the basket, and with a few blasts of hot air and we were o! the ground in seconds. The ground crew unhooked us and we were off What an amazing thing to view the world from a hot air balloon. Your whole perspective changes as all that is familiar gets smaller and smaller while you float along on the wind currents. The cows below didn’t particularly like us and they would look up and bellow, then race off in a panic. We glided along for an hour until our expert pilot set us down precisely between two wheat fields on a dirt road. The farmer wasn’t too happy, and he came out to tell us so, but the balloon did not damage the wheat and we all helped to pack it up and get the basket and balloon back on the trailer, celebrating afterwards with a little champagne!
When we returned to Le Papillon, we had breakfast, then launched for our final trip on the canal through the tunnel. It was a little creepy, damp and dark, but Cedric guided the barge through it without a hitch. We were glad to see daylight on the other side and we moored at our final destination – Pouilly en Auxois. It was a little sad knowing this was our last spot, but nevertheless, we took off on one last excursion to Fontenay Abbey. Once again we were treated to an astounding setting, beautiful grounds and buildings restored at various stages in its history by the Aynard family. They have done an incredible job of restoring the abbey over the years and we spent a couple of hours wandering through the buildings. On our return trip, we stopped at Semur en Auxois to walk through the medieval city admiring the architecture and remains of the fortifications. Then we loaded up into the trusty VW van and made our way back to the barge.
Our last night was bittersweet, knowing this would be the end to a wonderful week of friendship, learning about French history and culture, enjoying gourmet meals and being spoiled as guests of Le Papillon. But we threw ourselves into the festivities, enjoying our final stupendous meal, starting with a delectable crab cake, then duck with sautéed radishes, haricot verte, patate douce, our cheese course and ending the meal with pannecotta au citron. More champagne, conversations with the crew, then we reluctantly headed off to our cabins to pack and get ready for an early departure the next morning.
Looking back on our week on the barge, we were soothed by the warm hospitality of the crew who saw to our every need. We delighted in the comforts of the barge itself, intimate and cozy with a great deck to sit on and simply watch the scenery go by. We enjoyed the walking and bike riding, spending time together without the intrusions of the everyday stresses of life – work, caring for aging parents, household chores and more. We appreciated the fresh foods we ate, and the expert way they were made into something extraordinary three times a day for us. We left Le Papillon with hugs, kisses on both cheeks and a moist eye, knowing we would miss the leisurely pace and the feeling of being truly cared for by this wonderful group of people. As the van pulled away from Le Papillon for the last time, we all fell silent, each remembering special moments that we tucked away into our memory banks for future reference when we returned to our lives back in the states.
So … if you ever dreamed of a vacation where you don’t have to worry about anything, with a perfect setting, just the right amount of activities, delicious food, great companionship and the most wonderful people to care for you – Le Papillon is for you!
How can we ever adequately thank you for providing this incredible opportunity to us? We can only say thank you from the bottom of our hearts for this chance to experience the Papillon and for Larry and I to have a chance to reconnect again, spend some quality time together and remember what being in love is all about.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
C and L
[Many thanks to the owner of the Papillon for sharing these comments with us!]
For more information about Le Papillon, see: http://BargesInFrance.com/papillon.htm or contact us.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Canal Barge Trip Aboard the Luciole
Canal Barge Trip Aboard the Luciole
It was great!! No current newspapers, no TV. Flew to Paris, dropped bags at designated hotel, met the other participants later, and were picked up on Sun afternoon, and the 13 of us were driven to the barge - about three hours South of Paris.
It was a week's trip. The food was truly sensational -- cholesterol be damned!! It was extremely relaxing and restful.
Daily, we would have a half day barging and half a day with a knowledgeable crew member driving us to a local town/village and giving us the highlights whether it was a cathedral or a castle or a market or a vineyard. On the barge part of the day, our capitaine would give us the distance to the next lock - and we could walk it on the towpath, or bike it (a supply of these were stored on deck for our use). The speed limit for the canal was 3 and 1/2 knots which the skipper rarely attained, so you easily outstripped the barge. Or you could just take advantage of a deck chair and "cheer on" the athletes. Most walked at least one mile, a lesser number manned the deck chairs, and the least popular choice was bike.
Our crew (4 men, 2 women) was outstanding. While panning the scenery from the deck, you could have iced tea, lemonade, wine, beer, and biscuits. Beer turned out to be the popular choice. Hard liquor was also available, and like everything else, was a freebie, which no one called for until the last night.
At mealtimes, for breakfast, it was tables for 4 or 5 -- and buffet style with juices, fruit, cold cereal, assorted breads and pastries, coffee, milk, tea. Lunchtime again was the same table setup but one of the crew showed and explained all the choices and you were served individually at your seat. There was no assigned seating -- it was very informal -- and you pretty much got to eat with everyone. At dinner, the tables were pulled together into one long table and service was individually -- by courses. At both lunch and dinner, a cheese course was served -- always two or three different cheeses, preceded by an explanation of the background and qualities for each. Again, at both lunch and dinner, a different red wine and white wine, were discussed, and as always, replenished -- especially was this true at dinner. Almost everyone commented on how much more wine, he or she, consumed during the trip than they ever had at home. And the meals were truly gourmet - truly outstanding.
There was a small varied library on board, if you chose to read and hadn't brought your own reading material. And you had ample opportunity to read, as you slowly wandered down the canal and river (which overlapped in places).
Most times, shorts were in order. The only time the men dressed up was the last night's dinner, so, trousers. And some of the men wore jackets for this, dinner but some did not, nor did the capitaine, who ate with us for this one meal.
The cabins were quite small -- but all had a shower, sink, john etc. -- and you spent very little time there. (Twin beds butted at right angles against each other.)
We had a British couple and an British single woman, two related couples from Ohio, a couple from San Diego, and a couple from N.C. - with the ages running from 57 upwards to me.
The weather cooperated beautifully - which always helps.
The barges don't run in the winter, and this particular one will be closed up in a few weeks. Normally, the charge is just (in the mid to upper US$3,000 per person). I saw an ad in the Washington Post. We looked into it, and it was handled by an outfit over in Annapolis, specializing in barge travel, and they were great. They stayed with us -- not just until they had our credit card -- but even after the trip was completed.
Back to Paris - an hour and a half North, by car. And Paris is still Paris -- very nice! Last time there, lodged on the Left Bank, this time Right Bank, directly across the road from the Tuileries, about a block from the Louvre. Last time, walked everywhere. This time took a bus which connected with three others, making four loops in all, around the city. Finally caught up with Montmartre, which before had been seen only from a distance.
So, five days in Paris (food was OK - but not as good as previously. We were probably spoiled by the Luciole's chef). St. James & Albany Hotel and Spa was very good.
In balance, barge portion was excellent - thanks to Capitaine Stephon, Caroline, Paul, Neil, Elizabeth and William. ]
C.N., aboard Luciole, Canal du Nivernais, Burgundy
It was great!! No current newspapers, no TV. Flew to Paris, dropped bags at designated hotel, met the other participants later, and were picked up on Sun afternoon, and the 13 of us were driven to the barge - about three hours South of Paris.
It was a week's trip. The food was truly sensational -- cholesterol be damned!! It was extremely relaxing and restful.
Daily, we would have a half day barging and half a day with a knowledgeable crew member driving us to a local town/village and giving us the highlights whether it was a cathedral or a castle or a market or a vineyard. On the barge part of the day, our capitaine would give us the distance to the next lock - and we could walk it on the towpath, or bike it (a supply of these were stored on deck for our use). The speed limit for the canal was 3 and 1/2 knots which the skipper rarely attained, so you easily outstripped the barge. Or you could just take advantage of a deck chair and "cheer on" the athletes. Most walked at least one mile, a lesser number manned the deck chairs, and the least popular choice was bike.
Our crew (4 men, 2 women) was outstanding. While panning the scenery from the deck, you could have iced tea, lemonade, wine, beer, and biscuits. Beer turned out to be the popular choice. Hard liquor was also available, and like everything else, was a freebie, which no one called for until the last night.
At mealtimes, for breakfast, it was tables for 4 or 5 -- and buffet style with juices, fruit, cold cereal, assorted breads and pastries, coffee, milk, tea. Lunchtime again was the same table setup but one of the crew showed and explained all the choices and you were served individually at your seat. There was no assigned seating -- it was very informal -- and you pretty much got to eat with everyone. At dinner, the tables were pulled together into one long table and service was individually -- by courses. At both lunch and dinner, a cheese course was served -- always two or three different cheeses, preceded by an explanation of the background and qualities for each. Again, at both lunch and dinner, a different red wine and white wine, were discussed, and as always, replenished -- especially was this true at dinner. Almost everyone commented on how much more wine, he or she, consumed during the trip than they ever had at home. And the meals were truly gourmet - truly outstanding.
There was a small varied library on board, if you chose to read and hadn't brought your own reading material. And you had ample opportunity to read, as you slowly wandered down the canal and river (which overlapped in places).
Most times, shorts were in order. The only time the men dressed up was the last night's dinner, so, trousers. And some of the men wore jackets for this, dinner but some did not, nor did the capitaine, who ate with us for this one meal.
The cabins were quite small -- but all had a shower, sink, john etc. -- and you spent very little time there. (Twin beds butted at right angles against each other.)
We had a British couple and an British single woman, two related couples from Ohio, a couple from San Diego, and a couple from N.C. - with the ages running from 57 upwards to me.
The weather cooperated beautifully - which always helps.
The barges don't run in the winter, and this particular one will be closed up in a few weeks. Normally, the charge is just (in the mid to upper US$3,000 per person). I saw an ad in the Washington Post. We looked into it, and it was handled by an outfit over in Annapolis, specializing in barge travel, and they were great. They stayed with us -- not just until they had our credit card -- but even after the trip was completed.
Back to Paris - an hour and a half North, by car. And Paris is still Paris -- very nice! Last time there, lodged on the Left Bank, this time Right Bank, directly across the road from the Tuileries, about a block from the Louvre. Last time, walked everywhere. This time took a bus which connected with three others, making four loops in all, around the city. Finally caught up with Montmartre, which before had been seen only from a distance.
So, five days in Paris (food was OK - but not as good as previously. We were probably spoiled by the Luciole's chef). St. James & Albany Hotel and Spa was very good.
In balance, barge portion was excellent - thanks to Capitaine Stephon, Caroline, Paul, Neil, Elizabeth and William. ]
C.N., aboard Luciole, Canal du Nivernais, Burgundy
Aboard The Emma
A Week Aboard the Emma on the Canal du Midi
EMMA: Saturday - Day 1
If first impressions are lasting ones, then the EMMA hit it off just right. We were all very pleased with what we saw and experienced. We met everyone, Liz and Rene, the owners, and Anita and Christopher, the young couple working as hostess and driver/crewman. More on each later.We had champagne and snacks, then cruised for a short time before tying up for the night. Food on the EMMA was a special experience and every meal something to write about, so I will!!
The EMMA has a fully stocked bar, so we had a cocktail, then sat for dinner on the deck under a canopy of trees in this beautiful setting on the canal. We started with an appetizer of cold asparagus served with lime mayo and shaved parmesan. For this course, a local white wine. The wines of the Languedoc-Rousillon area are very good but not as famous as Bordeaux or Burgundy. Dinner was chicken in a sauce with green beans and new potatoes, a simple start that fit eveyone's taste. We had 2 bottles of a local red with dinner. A cheese course followed along with dessert and coffee.
EMMA: Sunday - Day 2
The routine on the EMMA was very relaxed and, as we quickly found, virtually the same every day. At around 8am, Rene or Christophe would take the van and go to a nearby boulangerie for the breakfast pastries and for the daily bread needs. At 8:30 we would have breakfast. At 9:30, off on the daily excursion, returning for lunch around 1:30. At 2:30 or 3:00, we would begin to cruise and most of the time we would sit on deck and read, nap, etc. Stopping at 6 or so, cocktails became the order of the day until dinner at 8. Repeat tomorrow.Our first excursion was to Carcassonne, a walled city that is quite remarkable. Much of it is now restaurants and tourist shops but still it amazes me that something this grand was built centuries ago. We toured the cathedral and the palace and wandered the streets, buyng a few souveners. Lunch was a real treat: couscous with mint, fresh spinach salad with peas and cheese, roasted red peppers with garlic, anchovies and olive oil, a bowl of radishes, fresh crusty bread with camembaert and blue cheeses. A local rose wine, perfectly chilled. Wow!
We began to cruise in earnest now and went through our first set of locks, a triple at Thebes. The day was sunny and we all sat on deck and enjoyed the cruise as the canal meandered rather than go in a straight line. For virtually the entire trip, the canal was lined with beautiful trees on one side and sometimes on both. This was welcome when it was hot.
We stopped for the night at Aguille lock where the lockkeeper had a number of his "works of art" on display. He takes what appears to be scrap metal and fashions sculptures. Several are of nudes, one woman and two men. Turning a crank makes the woman ride a bike and the men urinate.
We had a chance to talk to Liz. She is Irish from Belfast. Many (16-17) years ago she came to France. At that time "her marriage was not working" and she met Rene who was working in the rental boat business. As she put it, "there was the sun, the wine and Rene" so she stayed and worked with him. Around 1998, they bought the EMMA, at that time a flat bed barge. They spent 3 years making it what it is today. The first summer on the canal was 2002, just after 9/11 and they booked only 7 cruises, each with one couple. It was a tough year. In 2003, 10 weeks booked, most with 2 or more couples. Since then they have done very well. This year they will take the EMMA out of service in July and August, paint her and travel a bit on their own. July and August are crowded months on the canal as it fills up with rentals, "plastic boats" as she and Rene disparagingly refer to them.
We ate again on the deck and noted a new table cloth. She has enough tablecloths that we never saw the same one twice. Appetizer of very large figs, split and filled with goat cheese and thin slices of ham, served with a local white wine. Dinner was pork roast on a bed of spaghetti with baked onions and beets. We drank 2 bottles of red with dinner. Following the cheese course we had cherry cobbler for dessert.
EMMA: Monday - Day 3
Now we are into the daily routine, breakfast at 8:30 and in the van by 9:30 for our excursion. Today we went to Legrasse, a small village not far from Carcassonne. It was about an hour away and I confess it may not have been worth the drive. There was a small "halle" or marketplace with a few shops and an old cathedral, St.Michel de Legrasse, dating from the 13th century. I'm sure it was beautiful at one time but it had fallen into a sad state of repair, with pieces of plaster missing and large parts of once-lovely murals gone. We walked across a lovely stone bridge to go to the Abby St. Marie d'Orbieu. On the way we went into a cemetery. They do something I've never seen before by placing plaques on the grave that say "brother" or "friend", etc. We toured the Abby and found it interesting, dating from the 8th century.Back at 1:15 for lunch, another feast! Quiche of cheese, bacon, veggies along with a salad and bread. Next the cheese course, goat cheese and a soft cheese eaten with fruit. We managed to knock off 2 bottles of rose. At this point we began to keep track of our wine consumption. For the time on EMMA, we drank 32 bottles. Added to the wine off EMMA, Paris, St. Emilion, etc, we hit 55 for the trip.
The canal continues to meander and along side is a trail, a long-ago tow path that now carries walkers, joggers and bikers. The canal was begun in 1667 and took 14 years to build using 12,000 men (roughly the same time as US 41 in Bonita for all you FL residents!!). As we went through one lock today, there was a small bulldog-like dog, Cece, who knew to beg for food from the barge. Later on, a few miles away, there was Cece, working the canal at another lock.
We docked in Homps around 5pm and walked into town. It was small and since cocktails beckoned, we did not see much of Homps. The port at Homps was bustling, mostly with "plastic boats" but there were a few that were very nice.
Since the weather had turned cool and the breeze had become a wind, we ate inside. Appetizers of goat cheese round, breaded and fried and served on a bed of lettuce. Naturally, a local white was served. Next, broiled salmon over mushroom risotto along with local red wine. Following the cheese course, we had a fruit tart with creme fraiche, excellent.
EMMA: Tuesday - Day 4
We left Homps at 9:30 for the market in Olzenac to be followed by a visit to the village of Minerve. Liz thinks today is the best excursion day. I know now she was right as we enjoyed both, especially the market. Like many small towns in France, the market comes once a week. This one had clothes and other "stuff" as well as a veritable panoply of foodstuff: Cheeses, sausages with a variety of casings like pepper,cheese,olive, every kind of olive, breads fruits veggies,meats,fish. You can also buy ready to eat "stuff", like paella. My favorite was the chicken roaster with the drippings going onto either potatoes or onions.
Minerve is an old walled city built into the wall of a cliff. We wandered a bit and did not stay long. Back for another outstanding lunch: a grilled sausage about 3 feet long,curled on a platter, salad of "lamb's ear" lettuce, a fabulous casserole of escarole baked under a crust of bread crumbs, bacon and onions. for cheese, we had two, a Basque cheese with cherry jam and a blue cheese. Naturally, 2 bottles of local rose.
We got underway about 2:30 but as we approached the Homps lock, we got into a bit of a problem with 2 "plastic boats". There is a canal rule that commercial vessels (i.e.,EMMA) have priority at the lock. As the lock began to open, 2 plastic boats began to go in, saying they had been there first. The lockkeeper closed the gate, trapping them between the lock and EMMA. Then the yelling started, especially from a scrawny old fellow on one of the boats. Liz came up from the kitchen and gave it right back to him. Eventually, they moved and we got in the lock.
We anchored at a lovely spot, not far from the oldest canal bridge on the canal. Ron, Grag and I walked to the bridge.For dinner we had warm shrimp in a cream sauce in a crisy,open wrapper. A local white with this course. Our entree was cubes of lamb with ratatouille and a "sausage" made by stuffing eggplant with ground lamb and spices. After the cheese course, we had creme brulee which was excellent. Our dinner ed was a simple "vin du table" but it was excellent, our best yet on the cruise. .
EMMA: Wednesday - Day 5
Our excursion today took us to Narbonne, a city of 48,000. First we went to the market. Unlike Olzenac, this a daily market where all the basics can be bought -- bread, fish, meat, etc. From there we went to the Cathedral of St Just and St. Pasteur. Like the one in Legrasse, it is also in disrepair. Sad. We went back to the main square, checked e-mail, had cappucino.
Back now for lunch. When we went to the market, Christophe had picked up a large bag which had all the fixin's for lunch. We were presented with a huge boat of ice topped with 3 dozen oysters and probably as many shrimp. There was also a bowl of steamed mussles along with a pasta salad and a local white. Bread and cheese rounded out a fine lunch. We cruised uneventfully until stopping for the night. Cocktails followed by dinner. We started with a fish soup and admit it was not our favorite. Dinner, however, made up for it. Sea Bream on a bed of fennel, grean beans and carrots. Following cheese, a lemon tart that was excellent. A couple bottles of local red were very good.
We spoke with Anita a bit today. She is a very interesting young lady from Tasmania. She is now 30 but as a teen, she was on the Tasmania National soccer team and was picked for the Australian squad. However, knee problems put her in a wheelchair for 18 months until a surgeon was able to correct the problem. She met Christophe while wandering through Australia on her way to a teaching job in Taiwan. She ditched the job in favor of him and came to France. They joined EMMA this year and have already been asked back for next year. She even convinced her sister to come here and work the canal. Her sister will join one of the other barges like EMMA next week.
EMMA: Thursday - Day 6
For the first time on the cruise, we got underway right after breakfast. Shortly we came to the smallest bridges, a semi-circle that was so small that we had to move the deck chairs to the center of the boat. About 11:15 we stopped and walked into Capestang. We had seen it from afar and from several different angles as the canal circled the town while approaching. There was a charming square with lots of shade trees. Greg spoke with a Dutch fellow who was able to translate a monument for us, a monument to 176 members of the French underground who were executed by the Germans. The monument was just outside The Collegiate of St. Etienne. The Church was lovely with beautiful stained glass windows.Lunch was again something different. We began with whole artichoke open with the top of the heart containing vinegrette for dipping. Next, a platter of various sausages with cornichons and olives. A green salad with tomatoes, onion, etc. Two bottles of rose mellowed us for the afternoon ride. The cheeses were petit billy (goat cheese) and "Napoleon's" cheese with honey. We got underway at 2:45 with the best weather of the cruise. At about 3:45 we entered an area that presented us with a great panoramic view, vineyards below us, stretching to the hills in the distance.
We stopped in the late afternoon and went on another excursione but I think we were just about excursed out by now. We drove to the top of a nearby hill, the Oppidum and it offered a nice view as we could see all the way to the Mediterranean. We drove to the sea, walked through a small resort town to the beach, then went back to the EMMA. Rene, Liz, Anita and Christophe joined us on deck for cocktails. It was a perfect evening and we enjoyed talking about or week with them. We had our dinner on deck. appetizer of fois gras and a bottle of local white. Dinner of filet with potatoes and veggie. Cheese followed by a decadent triple chocolate cake.
EMMA: Friday - Day 7
"All too soon your week is over, but we will still manage a short cruise before we say our good- byes and after your breakfast you will be taken to your next destination to continue your onward journey, taking with you lasting memories of this most beautiful countryside."
"Photography and text by Ed Young (Illinois) celebrating a charter cruise for 6 aboard the hotel barge Emma, cruising on the Canal du Midi from Carcassonne to Beziers. Web Design by Special Places Travel LLC. Copyright © 2007 by Ed Young. Used by permission. All rights reserved. No use or adaptation without permission from the author. For further information, or to book your cruise aboard Emma, call Special Places Travel at 1-877-642-2743, or from outside the USA at 001-443-321-3614 or click here to contact us.
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